As the float plane flies low up the river valley, Delthore Peak emerges through the mist and dwarfs our twin otter as it skims the water on touchdown. The immense beauty of this river is legendary in the “Backbone of the Earth Range” of the Mackenzie Mountains. Though the Keele watercourse is ancient, its spirit is one of youthful exuberance. Shezal Canyon speaks to our paddlers asking us to join in the dance of endless waves, sweeping curves and swirling eddies. The turquoise waters of the Keele wind through spectacular mountain scenery and easily accessible alpine slopes with panoramic views.  This river is a kind whitewater river suitable for a wide range of paddling skills. The Keele is wide and deep with high standing waves in places. It braids and narrows into chutes as it glides down a steep slope toward the Mackenzie River. The river grows larger as more tributaries enter and there may be sightings of caribou, moose, eagles and most surely dall sheep with great fishing for both arctic grayling and bull trout.

This region, rich in beauty and wildlife, offers the opportunity to step into an ancient wilderness sculpted by geological time and steeped in First Nation history. This river served as a travel route for Mountain Dene hunters who now live in Ross River or Tulita. There is also evidence that humans used this area 11,000 to 12,000 years ago at the end of the last ice age. The Mountain Dene, who knew the river to be bountiful, hiked on ancient trails high into the headwaters at the continental divide. They trapped beaver and hunted moose using the hides to build skin boats in which they returned down the Keele to their encampments on the Mackenzie River. As we descend the turquoise waters of the Keele and enter the Mackenzie Lowlands, leaving the mountains in our shadow, we reflect on our shared adventure. Like the Dene before us, we are grateful for the riches of this northern river that have flowed into our hearts.

Adventure Facts:

• Keele River, Northwest Territories
• Natla Confluence to Great Bear Rock
• 375km, no portages
• Class II and III – novice to intermediate
• Keele River Expedition: $4850

Day 1 - Arrive in Norman Wells

• Depart Edmonton or Yellowknife arriving in Norman Wells. Met by Canoe North Adventures and shuttled to the float dock  for departure. A short paddle downstream will take us to our first campsite at Delthore.

Day 2 to Day 9  - Embark on Keele River

• We will descend the Keele River through spectacular mountain scenery. Our first camp will be at the end of the dramatic Shezal Canyon. Hiking awaits us at the Ekwi River. Our next day takes us down past the hunt camp with a chance for a visit before camping downstream. Dryas Camp welcomes us after a paddle beside high mountains that plunge right down to the river. Paddling is challenging but not difficult. Even though the Keele is a Class III river, it is a kind river. Sheep, moose, caribou and bear will be our companions Excitement awaits around each bend. Toochinkla awaits for another layover camp with hiking and a huge sand camp just right for bocci ball and euchre. The mountains start pulling away from the river as we paddle down to our camps near Red Dog Creek and the Talking Cliffs. This is our last camp before the Mackenzie.

Day 10 -  Keele River to Mackenzie Confluence

• We are in mountains until near the end of the river with many braids before the confluence with the Mackenzie and a night paddle on the Mackenzie if weather permits.

Day 11 -  Mackenzie River to Tulita

• After a visit to Tulita at Great Bear Rock, we have our last camp to organize and wash up gear.

Day 12 -  Great Bear Rock to Norman Wells

• On the final day, we take an air shuttle back to Norman Wells. Time for the Canoe North golf tournament at Ptarmigan Ridge. A final night dinner of caribou or arctic char will be held in Norman Wells. Accommodations at the Mackenzie Valley Inn.

Day 13 -  Norman Wells

• Depart Norman Wells: morning or afternoon flight.

After paddling for several days, my pre-trip anxieties about being able to keep up with the other paddlers had pretty much disappeared down the whorls my paddle made at canoe-side. We were aided by the friendly current that meant that even when we stopped paddling and rested with all the canoes abreast and joined by paddles laid from canoe to canoe, we still continued down river at a fair pace. Being the least experienced paddler in the group of twelve women, I rather looked forward to the times when we just drifted along and found ways to share snacks and drinks across the bows of six canoes. Trail mix and red licorice are, to my mind, always  things of beauty, but in the cool, sweet air on the river and after a couple of hours of paddling, the appeal of nuts, seeds, and strawberry licorice rises to a whole new level.

As a thoroughly professional trip leader, Lin made sure I and everyone else had the basics of paddling strokes, eddying in, and eddying out before she loosed our little flotilla of canoes into the central current of the river. So now straight-arm paddling and landing and launching manoeuvers were challenges I enjoyed meeting – that is, with the various experienced sternswomen Lin made sure were in the canoe I was in. There’s nothing quite like watching the northland slip by, salted here and there with mountain goats, moose, and beaver, and sprinkled on top with eagles, ravens, and other large birds intent on the territories they hovered over in their hunt for food.

We didn’t have to hunt for ours, and every mealtime was carefully planned and, in the open air, pure delight. Happy hour before each dinner was a special treat, and groups of four took turns preparing the meals, a different quartet having clean-up duty. Every evening, a different member of the group was responsible for dessert, and it’s amazing what some women managed to cook up over a campfire. One night we even had chocolate cake!

One morning, just when someone called out, Lin instructed those in the bows of canoes about something in the water ahead. It looked like a particularly large log floating in the river a few hundred yards downstream. The closer we got, the odder its drifting pattern seemed to be—more across the river than carried along by the current. Then Lin called a halt to our paddling. The log turned into a bear in the water. I felt a little frisson of anxiety wondering about how a powerful animal like this might react when already pushed out of its traditional feeding grounds. Might it see the river as a great provider that floated these delicious little human canapés its way at a time of need? No need to worry. The bear was far more concerned about getting across to the opposite bank than it was in detouring for river appetizers. A lot of huffing and snuffing when it reached the far bank did let us know that this part of the forest wasn’t welcoming human guests at the moment, thanks, and we continued on our way, heading for yet another great meal that I relished all the more for not having been part of an impromptu bruin buffet!

–Susan Gingell

It has been a long-standing dream of Canoe North Adventures to one day have its very own northern base of operations in Norman Wells, NWT. CNA was recently encouraged to develop a business plan and apply for funding to make this dream a reality. The application process was exhaustive and highly competitive. On May 5^th, 2009, Canoe North Adventures was awarded a special Tourism Infrastructure Grant from the Government of the Northwest Territories, Department of Industry, Tourism & Investment. The funding supports CNA’s dream to construct a wilderness adventure outfitting and tourism centre in Norman Wells.

Our Outfitting Centre

On July 1, 2009, a young and eager log-building crew headed by Calef Staples and Iain Long with support from Taylor Pace and Matt Casson, commenced construction of the 1700 square foot building. The timberframe structure includes scribed log infill walls highlighted by finely crafted saddle-notched corners. Cedar logs from Sault Saint Marie were trucked to Fort Simpson and then barged down the Mackenzie River to Norman Wells. Local spruce logs were acquired through the Norman Wells Land Corporation and our spectacular ridge beams were salvaged off the shores of the Mackenzie River and paddled “Huck-Fin” style to the town dock! Our magnificent cathedral ceiling is supported by 22ft long, 6×10 inch rafters custom-milled in Hay River, NWT. The construction site was alive with the sound of chainsaws, hammers, planers, drawknives and chisels throughout the endless, hot arctic summer creating mountains of sawdust, wood chips and bark.

On October 1, the last rafter was lowered in place with a crane, operated by Everett Pouw. In sub-zero temperatures and with winter fast approaching, the roof and steel sheeting was installed by Mark Herold, Gord Burke, Cody Berry, and Al Pace. The building was then boarded up and the site shut down until April, 2010 when the interior finishing work will begin.

The CNA building sits on the shore of picturesque DOT Lake, home of North-Wright Airways floatplane operations. All of our wilderness canoe and hiking expeditions requiring flights into the Mackenzie Mountains originate and end at the NWA Float Base so it is the primary staging area for adventure tourism.

Welcome!

North-Wright Airways also applied for and received NWT tourism infrastructure funding. NWA embarked on an ambitious plan to overhaul its tourism and floatplane expediting infrastructure. The project includes replacement of all dock facilities, construction of a floatplane hangar and a covered pavilion. An exciting heritage component involves the restoration and relocation of four original air services buildings into an outdoor historical airways museum. A 40ft painted mural of a vintage aircraft reminds visitors of the rich aviation legacy so intimately connected to opening up the rugged, northern frontier. The NWA project was developed and designed by Warren Wright with on-site construction engineered and supervised by Everett Pouw.

A view from above of the Centre

The combined construction projects of CNA and NWA represent one of the most dynamic tourism infrastructure development projects in Canada’s north and will herald in a new era in adventure tourism, aviation heritage and floatplane operations. On July 1, 2010, these new facilities will become operational. The CNA Wilderness Outfitting & Tourism Centre will offer complete and comprehensive support for hiking and canoeing expeditions in the northern Yukon and Northwest Territories.

The North-Wright Air Outdoor Aviation Museum will celebrate 90 years of flight in Canada’s north while the new docks, hangar and pavilion facilities will streamline and enhance the overall air services operations provided by North-Wright Airways. CNA & NWA are poised to deliver world-class adventure experiences to those who venture north. We are grateful for the support and shared vision of Warren and Carolyn Wright and the entire North-Wright family. These side-by-side projects would not be possible without the financial support provided by the Government of the Northwest Territories. Thank you!

Construction begins on the Outfitting Centre

Let the adventure begin!

Lin Ward & Al Pace

Canoe North Adventures ]]> http://canoenorthadventures.com/news-events/our-outfitting-centre/feed/ 0 http://canoenorthadventures.com/news-events/the-redstone-river-exploratory-expedition-2009/ http://canoenorthadventures.com/news-events/the-redstone-river-exploratory-expedition-2009/#comments Thu, 17 Dec 2009 21:30:33 +0000 admin http://canoenorthadventures.com/?p=668 The Redstone River is unique in that it flows through an ancient non-glaciated wilderness corridor. This corridor is part of Beringia – the pathway from Siberia to the America’s that allowed for prehistoric migration of large animals and humans. Today, the Redstone is seldom travelled and our exploratory canoe expedition was the first of its kind in many years.

When the North-Wright Twin Otter touched down on Drum Lake the sun broke through a heavy fog bank. We knew we had entered a region of immense beauty – an area which is sacred to the Mountain Dene as it represents an important and historic hunting and fishing region. Our group of six canoeists had an easy paddle across Drum Lake and entered the outlet stream to the Redstone River. The outlet stream is abundant with arctic grayling, lake trout and dolly varden and so we tested our luck with fly-rods and were instantly rewarded! We arrived at the confluence of the Redstone and were surprised to find a flat, sluggish river with a low profile. It wasn’t until we rounded our first bend in the river on Day II that the Redstone showed off her true colours. Miles of continuous white-water challenged and thrilled our group in the shadow of a stunning mountain-scape which rose up all around us.

At the confluence of the Ravensthroat and Redstone River a sprawling mountain valley greeted us that was lush with green and flooded with sunlight. We explored a unique tufa / sulphur spring area and spotted moose, one grizzly and many caribou on the move. We scouted the mile long, vertical walled slot canyon which has a 90 degree left-hand turn at the entrance gate but found it to be completely runnable and so we launched our canoes and entered the canyon. The canyon walls easily compared the those of the Nahanni and at the exit of the canyon a series of huge standing waves made for a bouncy and exhilarating finish.

A wolf family visited our last camp on the Redstone as we awoke to barking and whimpering sounds. The cubs ran off playfully having been scolded by their parents! As we paddled out of the mountains we entered the Mackenzie Lowlands usually signalling a sluggish river ahead. But to our delight, the Redstone continued to thrill us with great speed, bouncy waves and glorious views all the way to the Mackenzie River. We drifted down the mighty Mackenzie basking in the arctic heat and reflecting on our incredible journey.

The Canol (Canadian Oil) Project commenced during WWII with the construction of a pipeline from Norman Wells through the rugged Mackenzie Mountains to an oil refinery in Whitehorse, Yukon. The project was abruptly cancelled when the war ended – many of the 1940’s trucks and equipment that were used during construction were simply abandoned in the field and later salvaged. Our group of eleven hikers flew to MacMillan pass at the NWT / Yukon border, the highest point of the Canol Trail and mile #222. Heading east, the trail winds through the unique alpine tundra region called the Mackenzie Barrens. Hundreds of caribou were on the move through this region, crossing the trail in close proximity to our group. Remnants of wooden bridges rose out of the wilderness at river crossings where we were forced to wade waist-deep through the frigid waters. At the Intga River, weathered buildings appeared like ghosts from the past. This was the site of Canol Pump Station #6 scattered with rusting trucks, fuel drums and shattered dreams.

As we entered Caribou Pass and the Ekwi River Valley, stunning mountain vistas filled our view. Fresh trout and arctic grayling supplemented our menu of dehydrated stews and pastas. Our seven day Canol Trail hike covered 65 rugged miles through an amazing mountain wilderness. Our oldest hiker, Edith Steinbeck (70 years) had one complaint – that the trip wasn’t long enough! Edith said after six days she was just getting loosened up and could have hiked for another week! My guess is that she’ll be back to hike another section of the trail in 2010. We ended the hike at Ramhead Outfitters Camp where we were treated to a hearty home-cooked meal and a bonus hike on horseback before returning to Norman Wells by North-Wright Twin Otter.

Cathy and her husband

I think it’s safe to say that my husband, Jamie and I are at the “Is that all there is?” phase of middle age. We are constantly busy with such things as work, kids, volunteer commitments, elderly parents, meetings, and socializing – but we struggle to find real meaning in all the commotion.

So as I was approaching my “big” mid-life birthday with a dream of touring the Tuscan Countryside, Jamie signed us up for a 2 week wilderness expedition with Canoe North Adventures. I suspect this is because it is something he had always wanted to do, so thought it would be the perfect birthday gift for me!

I considered the prospect of paddling the Keele River located in the Northwest Territories. Let’s see… paddle hard all day, no showers for 12 days, do our own cooking in some kind of soot-covered pot over a fire, lug around heavy gear, sleep in a sleeping bag on the ground in a tent surrounded by bugs and wild animals, with all the experience of a weekend or two paddling in Algonquin Park. How perfect does that sound??

I had several months from signup day to departure for my trepidation to build. Might I get “up close and personal” with a grizzly bear? Would my inexperience let the group down? Was I fit enough for the physical demands of the trip? A practice session on the Grand River in the spring with Guides Al Pace and Lin Ward eased my mind somewhat as “eddy turns”, “draws”, “cross-bow draws” and “lean downstream” became part of my vocabulary – although they weren’t yet a big part of my skill set!

Well, it turns out there’s a lot one can learn in a canoe. Over the course of this expedition I learned a few things I expected to learn, and many, many more that I didn’t.

Jamie and I were the least experienced paddlers in our group of ten so naturally, whenever we paddled in the same canoe, we seemed to lag far behind the others. He suggested that I paddle just a little harder but my arms were already feeling like rubber! Then one day, out of the blue, (well, with a little coaching from Lin and Al), we GOT IT. It was all about finding the current and allowing ourselves to be carried by it, rather than fighting it – “going with the flow”, so to speak. Suddenly everything felt effortless. Great life lesson learned!

Then there was this issue of confidence. I didn’t have much – fast water paddling was just so far outside my comfort zone. But here’s what I learned – confidence is the sum of good teaching, experience (say, paddling 375 km. of river) and an enthusiastic cheering section. I couldn’t have asked for more encouragement and support than I got from our wonderful paddling gang. The amazing thing was that by the final days of the trip, Jamie and I had abandoned the safer gentle water on the inside of the river bends in favour of the “big bouncy water” on the outside of the curves – with whoops of delight, I might add. Riding those waves, feeling the icy water spray on our faces, was more fun than any roller coaster ride. Exhilarating!

Spending time on the river clearly taught all of us a bit about having fun – something we seem to forget in the day-to-day rat race of city life and “to do” lists. But it all started to come back to us on the banks of the Keele. There were hilarious moments as we tried to write group poems after a particularly hearty selection of cocktails at Happy Hour, or attempted to crush opponents at euchre under the midnight sun. On the night of my 50th birthday, Jamie baked a chocolate cake in the dutch oven which we devoured while watching a black bear walk along the river’s edge! I recall spontaneous “bocci rock” tournaments at our riverside campsites, and the excitement of swimming with a brave few in the icy waters of the Keele. Hearing the whoops of delight from “the guys” down at the fishing hole as they caught (and released) another huge bull trout was unforgettable!And I’m not sure I have ever laughed as hard as I did watching one of the more reserved members of our group perform a striptease – from a discreet distance, of course! – as he waded into the pristine water to wash. (Perhaps we have to blame that one on Happy Hour as well.)

But by far the most important lesson I learned over that marvelous two weeks was to slow down and appreciate the world and people around me. I remember our last night on the mighty Mackenzie River, when one of my co-mates and I were finishing our drinks by the fire and talking about some of the challenges and frustrations in our lives. We looked up and just above the trees on the horizon there was a huge yellow moon perfectly reflected in the shimmering water. It was breathtakingly beautiful. All thoughts of problems and frustrations faded – I felt like a part of something much larger, and all I really had to do was “go with the flow”, not fight the current.

So I don’t really know what I was looking for as I set off on the river last August, but I think I found it. In the year since we have returned home from our paddling trip, Jamie and I have noticed subtle changes in our outlook on life. We are no longer satisfied with the mundane, or the busy treadmill that takes us nowhere. It makes more sense to slow down, consider what we really want, and then set about going after it. Our confidence buoyed by achievements on the river, and inspired by others on our trip, we try to push our own limits. Brave enough to venture outside our comfort zones, we dive into new challenges, and sometimes even succeed!

When life gets too hectic, or presents us with set-backs, Jamie and I endeavor to find that same sense of inner peace that surrounded us that magical night under the moon on the Mackenzie River. And we have promised each other that if we should ever feel that calm, that confidence, that inspiration slipping away from our lives, we will know that it is time for another wilderness encounter with Canoe North Adventures.

Our menu is a gourmet experience with much of our daily fare being extremely well received by our clients. As we became more experienced in our northern travel, we have continued to add to our menus to make our wilderness meals varied and interesting. In the early days, we took mostly dried foods always conscious of weight. As our menus have evolved, we have incorporate much more fresh food into the meals.

Typically, river trips are 14 day excursions including travel days. Trip costs range from $3500 to $6900+ gst not including commercial airfare to Norman Wells or Whitehorse. This fee does not include any accommodations or off-river meal.

Your trip fee includes:

• pre-trip training session on the Orangeville Reservoir or Grand River (you are responsible for ensuring that you fit into one of our schedules)
• assistance in acquiring appropriate personal gear
• assistance with extended private travel plans
• airport shuttles
• all land, air and river shuttles in and out of the river
• complimentary CNA T-shirt and ball-cap
• two river guides
• safety and river skills training
• medical kit
• satellite phone
• canoes, paddles, PFDs, personal waterproof pack, spray decks when required
• all high quality canoe trip gear and equipment including expedition tents
• all gourmet meals and snacks on the river
• post-trip get together

Not Included:

• personal sleeping bag, camping mat & personal gear
• commercial airfare
• travel insurance
• co-ordinated travel arrangements and insurance through Travel Professionals International (you can use your own agent or book your own flights)
• hotel or any off river accommodations
• off river meals or snacks
• surprise appetizers or desserts
• any extended travel expenses

 Canoe North Adventures can help make the decision of taking a trip into the far north of Canada a comfortable and informed choice. Most people step into the wilderness with some trepidation and concern about whether they can handle such an adventure. Canoe North Adventures specializes in matching people’s dreams to the right level of river for their skills and interests. And believe us, there is such a river waiting in your future if you can only take the one step forward to finding out how this can happen.

Matching people to an appropriate river level means assessing paddling skills as novice, intermediate or advanced and choosing a suitable river and a group of people with comparable skills and interests. Rivers do offer people with a range of skill levels a significant wilderness experience. Novice paddlers have spent time in a canoe and have basic understanding of strokes and camping. Intermediate have a level of comfort with strokes, camping and moving water. Advanced river travel requires a good understanding of river dynamics and strong paddling skills. Just because a river is rated as novice does not mean that an intermediate or Advanced paddler could not enjoy this level of river as any rivers that are offered by Canoe North Adventures offer adventure and a significant wilderness experience.